About Me

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We started this school from scratch because we wanted to do it better and to do it right. We believe in good food. We believe in education. We believe in the communion that takes place between people sitting down together over an expertly crafted meal. We believe that learning to cook and bake should be affordable. We believe that solid skills, proper technique, educated palates, and comprehension of kitchen math are the cornerstones for cooks with futures, so that is what we teach. We are not perfect, but we strive for perfection. We expect our students to work hard and try every day and every minute. We expect the same from ourselves. We have heard our graduates referred to as 'Kitchen Ninjas' (at which we laugh but think that the term might fit). We do not want to take over the world. But we do want to make it a better place, filled with better cooks and bakers, better food, and a higher awareness of what it means to cultivate, harvest, render, prepare, cook, plate, present, savor, and give thanks, while taking responsible steps to make sure that those who come after us will have the same or better opportunities.

Friday, January 21, 2011

A Poet in our Midst

An Interview with Donald Dunbar, English Instructor in the Management Program

"I learned this, at least, by my experiment; that if one advances confidently in the direction of his dreams, and endeavors to live the life which he has imagined, he will meet with a success unexpected in common hours."
- Henry David Thoreau, Walden

English Instructor Donald Dunbar
Where are you from?
I grew up mostly around Ann Arbor, Michigan, and did my undergraduate work at the University of Wisconsin. I then escaped the Midwest, which is awful, for Tucson, Arizona, where I got my MFA in Poetry from the U of A. As for my family, I have a younger brother who lives in San Diego and a younger sister in Austin, Texas. My parents live in Michigan but they’re going to try out living in France in 2012.

I was a pretty typical nerd growing up. I loved reading and computers, and got grounded a few times from each (my parents packed up my books at least once). The food scene was pretty great. My mom cooked pretty fantastic dinners every night, and my sister--who’s a culinary school grad--and my brother were both quick learners. I didn’t really start cooking until three years ago when I moved to Portland and started learning from my housemates. I haven’t cooked meat since I spent four hours uselessly torturing shish kabobs in Montana, but I’m an eating-out omnivore.

Nowadays I spend most of my time writing poetry. I’ve published a bunch of poems in magazines, and two little chapbooks online, and co-run a reading series called If Not For Kidnap. When I was a kid I wouldn’t have imagined I’d be into poetry. I thought poetry was stupid and boring. I thought I was going to be a programmer, which I did not think was boring. But I accidentally got into a poetry class and have been doing it ever since.

What was your path to working at OCI?
I had been travelling for about a year after graduate school. I lived alone in a cabin in the Upper Peninsula (Michigan) for three months in the fall. The only time I saw people was when I went to town to get groceries. It was pretty wild. Then I spent the first part of the winter in Florida with my grandfather before going to Europe for three months. I spent most of my time in Germany (where my brother was living) and Portugal, but also visited London and Amsterdam. I mostly travelled by myself. When I got back to the states, I made my way out to Portland.

I had difficulty finding paying work when I first moved here and then again for a summer after the restaurant I had been working at in Northwest Portland closed. After an unemployed summer that was great for my writing but terrible to my bank account, I started looking for work. I was in a cafe with a friend and we opened up the weekly with the Free Will Astrology and both our signs had been circled by someone. Mine read something like “If you spent half as much as much energy on your professional life as you do on your personal life you’ll be a great success.” So for the fiftieth time that summer I opened up Craigslist, but this time found an ad for an adjunct English teacher at Pioneer Pacific in Clackamas.

I worked at the Clackamas campus for ten months or so, and came to OCI to teach one class on loan. As the term ended Chef Wilke pulled me aside and said, “Hey why don’t you come teach for us full time?” The next term I started teaching and sitting in on management classes to better understand the program. From the first class I was really interested, and learned a lot. It was very interesting to learn all these solutions and approaches to the problems I had noticed working at restaurants throughout college, and I got to understand the principles that the management curriculum is designed around. The ethical and sustainable approach to leading a restaurant, the direct involvement with the students that every instructor and administrator has. I was already glad to be here but that’s how I came to feel really proud.

Which classes do you teach?
I teach three English courses and a communications course (Diversity Issues in Communication). I’ve developed each of my classes from the ground up, getting them to really complement the business side of the management program and the students’ pursuit of culinary knowledge. But I’ve also got total control over how I teach, which is very important to me. School was very boring to me when I was growing up.

English 115 is a blast. We basically do a bunch of writing, and rather than try to re-learn formulas we’ve all forgotten, we focus on improving writing skill and learning how to be more active readers. Many of the assignments are focused directly on developing skills necessary for restaurant writing--correspondence, menus, business plans, marketing--but we do a lot of weird stuff in the class. Surrealist writing exercises, collaborative writing, and the final exam... English 121 is called English Composition, and we interpret that through a term-long blog project. Each student formulates a blog project that they design, update, and learn to utilize for professional networking. They’re pretty awesome, the blogs we’ve had so far. Right now there’s a student blogging reviews of Portland food carts, one developing a blog exploring the many aspects of cake creation and sugar artistry, and another one written by a mother of five reporting on the chaos that is her kitchen at home. I could go on. English 221 is a research paper class. Students choose topics related to food, farming, restaurants, etc. and learn skills for structuring a long argument. Topics range from microbrew beer to vertical farms to the raw food movement to traditional food preservation methods. I learn so much about food, all about food, it’s always an education for me too. In Com 150 we discuss food as a major aspect of culture, and develop different ways to understand what make up our cultures and how we and others are affected by that. This knowledge is particularly useful for someone running a kitchen, and I think anyone taking their position of authority seriously should seek to expand their understanding of it.

Why did you structure your curriculum the way you did?
Everyone has got their own skill at communication, and their own goals. This structure makes it so I can help the student identify what those are in English 115, develop them for an audience in 121, and apply them to furthering their own and other people’s knowledge in 221. I’m hearing or reading at least one piece of writing from each student every day in both 115 and 121, and reading various drafts of their research paper in 221. Com 150 then examines how what we value affects how we communicate and how we interpret other people’s communications.

Management students performing a group sketch.
For the most part, the people taking the management program came to OCI to learn to cook or bake. What is their reaction to taking English classes?
Chefs are creative people, so usually most everyone is on board pretty quick. There are a lot of different skill levels, from people who could pretty easily publish stories or articles to people who’ve failed every writing class they’ve ever taken. But there’s so much to discover. Everybody can improve their skill at communication, simply because there’s so many different ways to do it, with so many different effects. Some students get comfortable with the basics and learn to have confidence in their ability to write, and some students further hone the finer points of it. It’s like the term one culinary student who hasn’t mastered knife skills and the term one culinary student who has worked in a profession kitchen for a decade--there’s always more to learn. And I think everybody realizes the importance of good communication skills. The ability to communicate ideas and emotions to other human beings, and to persuade and entertain people, is what separates us from cows.

Do students ever tell you whether or not your classes have helped them?
Oh yeah. It’s a rewarding job.

Do you notice differences between culinary and baking students, or how they get along in class?
No, not really. All classes are built so much on group interaction that by the third day it doesn’t matter what program the student is in. They’re all just management students in my classes.

What do you do when you’re not at work?
Listen to a lot of music.

Where can your poetry be found?
Poetry journals like Action, Yes!, Slope, Poor Claudia, and absent.

Any final thoughts?
Writing is fun when it’s not stressful. Even if you don’t take one of my classes, I totally encourage you to take ten minutes and write something just for yourself. A mysterious package arrives on your doorstep. What’s inside it? What happens then?

Monday, January 10, 2011

The Legacy of James Beard in Oregon

by Lance J. Mayhew


James Beard.  Photo credit Dan Wynn,
©Elisabeth Wynn and courtesy of
the James Beard Foundation
Oregon is a place full of culinary riches. From the Oregon coast, abounding with mussels, clams, and Dungeness crabs -- to the Columbia River, full of salmon, sturgeon, and steelhead -- to the lush forests steeped with morel and chanterelle mushrooms -- to the orchards blossoming with cherries, pears, and apples, Oregon is the land of plenty. It is from this special place where James Beard, America's foremost food expert and the “Dean of American Cuisine,” was born and raised. The experiences James Beard had while in Oregon shaped his appreciation for food and the Pacific Northwest.

Visitors to Oregon can still follow Beard's trail:  from the cooking school he ran during summers at Seaside High School, to the site of the 1905 Lewis and Clark Exposition, now occupied by Meriwethers Restaurant, to Huber's Restaurant, famous then as it is now for roast turkey, to the Original Pancake House, a restaurant Beard once named as one of the top ten in America, many pockets of James Beard’s Oregon are still thriving.  While some of the physical places Beard enjoyed still exist and can be explored, the spirit of James Beard lives on in the do-it-yourself ethic of the locals and in the famers markets, restaurants, and general food philosophy of most Oregonians.  While the term “foodie” is quite common today, Beard is said to have preferred the word “epicure” to being called a “gourmet,” as, he once stated, “the epicure is a man who likes food, the gourmet is the man who likes talking about food.”  Beard reminisced about the quality and quantity of the produce in Oregon and even though he moved to New York City, Oregon continued to play a major role in his life.  “I went shopping today and just the size of the fresh vegetables, the rhubarb with its brilliant red stems and its red and green leaves and the magnificent spinach with huge lovely tender leaves and the first little tender peas of the year and tiny new potatoes and exquisite strawberries...” he once marveled about the produce he found on the Oregon coast.

In the years since Beard lived in Oregon, generations of great chefs have chosen to make this special place their home.  The best of the best have been nominated for James Beard awards, and the very best of them have been honored with the award.  Local cooking schools have continued Beard's commitment to culinary education, helping to inspire the next generation of great Oregon chefs.  No matter what style of cuisine, or the cooking techniques used, Oregon chefs celebrate the richness and diversity of foods available in Oregon and in doing so, they honor James Beard's legacy with every dish that they produce.

In March of this year, we celebrate James Beard's legacy in Oregon with the James Beard Foundation's award nominations here in Portland Oregon.  For one evening, every James Beard award nominated and winning chef in Oregon history will be come together to honor James Beard. Come celebrate Beard, the Oregon chefs and a continued commitment to culinary education in Oregon during this event.

Tickets for the James Beard Award nomination gala will be available at www.TicketWeb.com and the event occurs Sunday, March 20, 2011 at the Multnomah Athletic Club in Portland Oregon. Visit www.jamesbeardinoregon.com for more information and to purchase tickets.

Friday, January 7, 2011

Interview with OCI Grads and Business Partners Kat Liebman and Zoe Hackett

Kat and Zoe, both OCI alums, will be opening a new restaurant together in March of 2011.  We sat down with them for lunch at OCI last month to find out more about their story. 

Kat Liebman (left) and Zoe Hackett (right)
How did the two of you meet?

Kat: We met at Lucy’s Table after I’d been there for three months.

Zoe: I had just finished my externship at Beast, then I travelled a little bit. When I came back, Nina (Tuthill, OCI Career Services Director) helped me get a job at Lucy’s Table. I started in pantry.

K: I was moving from pantry to sauté.

Z: Brian, the Chef de Cuisine, hired me that day. The restaurant has 60 seats, and it was just a staff of Kat, Brian, and me. Sometimes it was only two of us, and we’d be dealing with lunch, happy hour, and dinner, with the only other back of house staff being the dishwasher.

K: Pretty soon after we met, we realized our styles and goals were similar. We immediately started brainstorming. We both wanted to be more efficient and do it our way.

Z: When we met, Kat was helping me get up to speed in the kitchen, but after that, we got to be really creative every day. We created the specials. Kat would do daily sauté and salad specials, I was doing the amuse bouche and au revoir. We always had specials. We also had to squeeze in an hour of creative prep for the specials, all in addition to the huge menu.

K: The bar menu has 20 items different from the dining room menu. The dining room has both small and large plates.

Z: Plus, we made everything in house – sauces (demi and remis), and pasta, gnocchi, barbecue sauces -- anything you could think of. Nothing came in that was premade.

K: We fabricated all proteins in house, too, large cuts of meat. And we managed costs. When the Chef de Cuisine left, we basically did the job of an executive chef. We got really good at ordering, managing schedules, all that stuff.

Z: Plus, we had a bare bones kitchen. There was no line refrigeration. Everything was hotel pans with ice. That’s like another 45 minutes changing that out every day.

K: It was a great experience.

Z: Yeah, it was like a year long extension of school. Hands on, practical. Once we got up to speed to make it happen, we were able to constantly talk about where we wanted to go next, together.

Z: Originally, we thought about a sauce business. We brainstormed and even created homework assignments, but before we really got started, Kat started expanding it to a real business plan and a restaurant, and that was the long term plan anyway, so we couldn’t turn back.

K: One of our best nights at Lucy’s Table was when we expected 20 covers, and we ended up with over 80 between the bar and the dining room. There were no mishaps, with exception of the gas burner not lighting, and our point and click wasn’t working, so we were lighting the burner with flaming paper towels! That’s when we knew we could be successful managing a place and the food correctly on our own. After that night, we said “we can do this.”

Z: It got to the point where we were so productive on the time we had off together that we decided it was time to put in our notice and get busy with our business plan. The last item on the business plan was finding the right property.

K: I started reaching out to brokers, and I got a couple tips here and there, and then on the first day of unemployment, I randomly got an email from a broker who asked if I would be interested in the old Fats place. He didn’t want to announce it, so we were able to do it quietly. It was a perfect match for us. There were six more prominent Portland food people than us, but Micah (the Fats owner) decided we were the best fit for the area and the street. The business plan that we were working on had the most developed concept. Micah and the broker were confident in our concept and liked that we were two new food chicks on the scene.

Do you know what you are going to call it?

K: “Cocotte” is the name. The concept came first. We had a few working names that we dropped. We were looking for a word that could be feminine, edgy and inviting, and carried a food connotation. We also wanted a name that would coexist well with the neighborhood, being near DOC and Beast.

Z: I found the name in an old French book. I was looking for an approachable word people could say.

K: “Cocotte” has a few different meanings:

- Casserole or stew pot, a dish, earthenware or cast iron;
- my baby chick or hen;
- honey, darling;
- and in comtemporary French, it can be slang for a “painted lady” or “lady of the night.”

We have the concept of it being a feminine and warm place, even a little bit sexy. We don’t want it to be pretentious. It will be a Parisian style bistro in look and feel, with food inspired by classic French cuisine. But the food will be very contemporary.

Z: We’ll have rustic touches, but not “smack you in the face” French bistro. There will be old world French elements. Right now we’re finding ‘20s era antiques, light fixtures, and china.

K: The space lends itself very well to the theme. We even have old French doors on the building, which is from the turn of the century.

Z: The kitchen will be semi-open. We want the warmth and femininity to come through in the food.

How many seats and when do you plan to open?

K: There will be 38 seats, including 8 in the bar. We are aiming for a March 1, 2011 opening date.

What is the address?

2930 N.E. Killingsworth St., near Beast and D.O.C.

How have Ray (Colvin, OCI Business Program Architect and Location Director) and Maxine (Borcherding, Management Instructor) helped you?

K: Ray and Max have been like advisors. I’ve had an entrepreneurial goal ever since I came to OCI. Max has been amazing. She asked Ray to get involved, and they’ve been great.

Z: They really backed us up so we didn’t feel like young dreamers. They really believe in us, pointing out little details that would help us.

K: It really helped when we met with Max for the first time and she wasn’t terrified of our idea!

M: Max said, “Don’t be afraid to give your dishes a good, fair price point,” and that was good advice.

Z: She also told us to have wine distributors come in and walk us through the wines. And she told us to be open as often as possible. There will only be five on staff, and we planned on only being open Wednesdays through Sundays, but she pointed out that we’re paying rent all those days, so we should be open as much as we in the beginning. Then, when we’re dialed in, we can bring in help so you can have a weekend.

So what will the hours be?

K: Every Monday will be an office day, while we work on new menu, because we want to change the menu every couple weeks. We’ll only be closed Sunday nights and Mondays. We’ll only be open for dinner on Tuesday through Friday, on Saturday we’ll be open for brunch and dinner, and on Sunday we’ll be open for brunch only. Zoe and I feel like we work so well together, this is our baby, it is a labor of love, and the goal here is for us to establish ourselves.

Z: Yep.